I've been single-speeding for nearly 30 years (not including BMX bikes as a kid), with a few years of derailleurs thrown in for good measure. I don't dislike multi-speed bikes on a philosophical level, nor has a derailleur ever truly stranded me on a ride, insulted me or killed a family member. I just don't like the noise(s) they make. And so, the few periods where derailleured bikes were in the stable, I quickly converted those bikes to single-speed (or sold them altogether) simply because of the extra chatter that a derailleur and its pulleys make.
However, my aural fixations have not been without irritation in my current era of bikepacking and ultra-distance bicycle racing. The long distances, inclement weather and water crossings that frequent many of the routes in the southeast has made it a challenge to keep a chain clean, lubed and quiet for the duration of a ride. I often packed a small bottle of Squirt to re-lube the chain every hundred miles or so, but occasionally fell victim to my own poor planning (laziness) if I forgot to refill or even bring the lube, leaving the remainder of the ride an unbearable cocophany of gnashing metal.
A few years ago, I acknowledged the appeal of the Gates CarbonDrive belt-drive system and its supposed quiet operation and reduced need for maintenance. I first chose to convert my (t)rusty Ritchey p29er. If old MacDonald had a bike, it might be this (guinea) pig of a workhorse with a braze braze here, and a weld weld there, cut and weld and braze and weld, and everywhere a rattle can spray bomb...you get the picture.
Oink oink.
A 50x20 for the hills of Florida.
For all of the warnings about frame alignment and lateral rigidity, perhaps that plagued the earlier iterations of the Gates belt systems, the converted Ritchey has been relatively trouble-free. It's not a particularly stiff frame, and the horizontal drop-outs I welded in certainly do not meet any reasonable spec for alignment. The only issues I've had are an occasional slip of the hub due to not torquing the hub's bolts sufficiently. Otherwise, the belt-drive has been dead reliable,
and quiet!!!
My trio of bicycles also includes a (used) 2018 Orbea Occam...full-suspension and single-speed. I rode this for two years with a conventional chain and Rohloff tensioner. It mainly sees miles on routes with lots of technical singletrack. For my Mountain 420 ride in Tennessee in 2023, I didn't have any Squirt to top off my mini-bottle prior to the ride. I did have some Maxima chain lube which was supposedly paraffin-based. And since I soak my chains in paraffin wax, I didn't think much of this fact. Unfortunately, whatever solvent Maxima uses to suspend the paraffin in the lube managed to solvate the paraffin that was on/in the rollers of the chain, completely stripping the chain of its paraffin about halfway through the ride. And, where Squirt would typically give me about 100 miles of drivetrain quietness, the Maxima lube was cooked in about 30. I quickly ran through the remainder of the lube, and spent the last 200 miles pedaling a Lowes shopping cart.
Fast-forward about 9 months, I began contemplating a tensioner that would allow me to run a Gates belt-drive on the Orbea. No aftermarket tensioner exists for this purpose, and the few full-suspension bikes that utilize a Gates belt incorporate a tensioner mounted at the chainring/gearbox (i.e. Zerode). Lacking an elevated chainstay on the drive-side, utilizing the Zerode tensioner at the chainring is not an option. So, I dug into my box of derailleurs I never use, and began hacking them up to prototype a tensioner. Would this even be possible, especially with the high belt-tension you typically need to prevent the belt from skipping?
Here, I've taken a SRAM Force derailleur, removed its pulleys, and made a custom carrier for a Gates 22t cog. Version 1.0 provides tension to the toothed-side of the belt, and the belt tracks quietly. Unfortunately, it does not provide enough tension to prevent the belt from skipping on the cog under moderate pedaling force. No bueno.
Here, I've added an idler pulley to add some tension against the backside of the belt and increase the amount of belt "wrap" around the cog. Unfortunately, Version 1.1 was also insufficient to prevent belt skipping under moderate loads.
Using my head a little bit here...some research turned up a "snubber wheel" solution for Rohloff internally-geared hubs. Apparently, the high-belt tension typically required for the Gates belt was destroying the bearings within Rohloff hubs. Their solution was to reduce the belt tension, and run a small wheel on the backside of the belt to prevent the belt from riding up the cog. I created a "snubber wheel" using a skateboard bearing (and other aluminum scraps I had in the garage). Version 1.0a worked...I was unable to make the belt skip no matter how much load I put through the pedals.

Not an AI image. Here, I tried to get fancy and remove the "parallelogram" from the derailleur. In doing so, I discovered the links of the derailleur are not a parallelogram, as its movement (when shifting) is not along a simple plane. Version 2.0 here required an inordinate amount of hand-filing to create, and in the end, I was unable to fine-tune the alignment to my liking (i.e. too much belt noise). So, I reverted back to Version 1.0a.
The maiden voyage of Version 1.0a was the Pisgah 99. Failure here would guarantee me at least a half-day's walk to get back to the cabin. It didn't fail.
Lots of unlawful stuff to disturb our National forests are in the works, I'm afraid.
The prototype was a success. While the tensioner was not sufficient on its own to provide enough tension to keep the belt from skipping, the addition of a "snubber wheel" on the backside of the cog prevented the belt from riding up the cog under heavy pedaling loads. While I didn't drop the belt during the ride, there were some disconcerting "thuds" that suggested suspension movement under harsh terrain was causing the tensioner to "loft" as the belt was quickly loaded. The SRAM Force derailleur clearly wasn't designed for this.
I sourced a SB One tensioner from Germany as a potential solution. This is a single-speed tensioner designed for downhill mountain bikes, with adjustable tension and an adjustable clutch mechanism. Its construction is impressive but it, too, isn't ready to go (for a belt) right out of the box.
The SB One tensioner is designed for small cogs. Downhill MTBs go...downhill. My rear cog is significantly larger than what the SB One was designed for. Here, I've roughed out the basic shape of the adapter on the mill. This locates the SB One far enough forward to not be detrimental to belt-wrap around the cog, and incorporated a mount for the snubber wheel behind the cog...
...like so.
The snubber wheel can also be pushed 'outboard' to the cog so that the wheel can be easily removed.
A few pics of the initial roughing, and the final massaging.
Measure thrice, cut twice.
I also replaced the 22t tensioner cog with a 20t cog.
Quite a bit of work for 20 grams. I'm not well equipped to turn or mill stainless on my machines. I'd like to find an aluminum version of this cog. Or an .stl file...maybe try a 3D printed cog in the future???
Verson 3.1 is not lightweight.
But it looks presentable.
And it works.
But something seems off...
Don't need that any longer...now the overall weight is comparable to a high-end derailleur.
Much better.
42x28 and a custom spiderweb-clearing stick.
The tensioner worked flawlessly across the Virgina Rockstar and the TNGA during 2024...hundreds of miles of quiet operation, nearly maintenance-free*, keeping my (in)sanity in check. Only things I plan to change are 1) anodize the adapter mount black and 2) lighter tensioner pulley (at some point).
*Gates belts neither like mud nor ice, as these clog up the center-track of the belt. Fortunately, water is about all the maintenance they need during a 300+ mile bike ride. Always carry a spare belt...because of Murphy.